August 15, 2006
Bubba City Guide Updated, Proceeds Benefit NRAC
Fayetteville, WV.- Eric Hörst has updated his guidebook to Bubba City. It includes 32 new pages, new cliff-face topos of the most popular areas, many new photos, and all the new routes and anchor upgrades of recent years. All net proceeds beyond printing costs go toward anchor replacement costs and other NRAC initiatives (BONUS: the WiredNut appears in a photo in the book :)) You can buy the guide at a discount for $12.95 (plus $1.50 shipping) at Eric's Bubba City website.
Posted by WiredNut at 08:11 AM | Comments (0)
June 15, 2006
Bouldering History: John Gill's Website
Boulderers and climbing history enthusiasts should definitely check out John Gill's website. Gill is the American godfather of bouldering, and his fascinating memoirs and historical accounts and photos of early bouldering are a must read.
Posted by WiredNut at 08:13 AM | Comments (0)
June 12, 2006
New Gear: RockTools Superclip
Redding, California's Rock Climbing Tools is manufacturing a fantastic new stick clip tool. The Superclip is so simple and ingenious, you'll slap your forehead that you didn't think of it first. Compare the minimalist design to that of the Squid, and you understand what owner Russell Barrett means when he says he took the opposite approach, paring his design down to the essential components. He says: "I wanted it to be minimal, but also very durable--you can toss it in the back of your truck and it'll be fine. It's made of spring steel, and it's also stainless. We manufacture it here in America."
I've tested it out and it is without a doubt the best stick clip I've used--better than the Squid, and certainly better than any homemade clamp and tape kludge. It will clip and unclip quick draws quickly and reliably. I used it with a variety of carabiners: Petzl Spirits, Black Diamond Hotwires, and two or three other brands. All worked flawlessly. Barrett also makes versions for larger locking carabiners geared towared rescue and rigging workers, as well as a kit that allows a paddle to be used as the stick (for river rats).
To order call 530-223-9000. It costs 21.95, I paid another $4 for shipping and it arrived in two days.
Posted by WiredNut at 06:02 PM | Comments (0)
November 21, 2005
Guidebook: Dixie Cragger's Atlas
The Dixie Cragger's Atlas by Chris WatfordRoswell, GA.- Although the areas covered by the Dixie Cragger's Atlas (DCA) don't quite fall within the WiredNut's mid-atlantic region, it's close enough, and this set of two guidebooks from author Chris Watford deserves your attention. Chris is a veteran climber who's worked hard on this guide, not to mention his efforts as a founding member of the Access Fund and as an activist in the Southeastern Climber's Coalition.
The DCA's first volume, selling for $38.00, covers areas in Tenessee, the second volume is $29.00 and covers Alabama and Georgia. Chris says "Splitting the guide will keep your pack lighter and guarantee that your skinny climber legs won’t get bigger!". The durable binding means it won't fall apart in your pack either. Note also the sharp arial photos of the cliffline, carefully drawn topos, and plenty of action shots for inspiration. He's also published a pocket guide to the Tenessee Wall for $20.00.
You can find local retailers of the DCA online at Chris's Dixie Cragger website, as well as at Climbinggear.com
Posted by WiredNut at 08:19 PM | Comments (0)
October 13, 2005
New Paltz Climbing Film Festival
New Paltz, NY.- The 7th Annual New Paltz Climbing Film Festival is this weekend, Oct. 15-17. Along with some great climbing movies, you can check out a bouldering clinic with Ivan Green, a self-rescue clinic with Cody Sims, and a Saturday night after party at Bacchus. Find information and directions here.
Posted by WiredNut at 10:45 AM | Comments (0)
August 24, 2005
Rumor: RRG Guide Available Sep. 7 at Miguel's
Posted by WiredNut at 10:32 AM | Comments (0)
August 22, 2005
Red River Gorge Online Museum
Slade, KY.- A visit to the online museum at Redriverclimbing.com is a must for any RRG climber. Of particular interest: a 1981 Climbing Magazine article by Frank Becker, as well as the 1981 guide by Ed Pearsall.
Posted by WiredNut at 10:29 AM | Comments (0)
August 19, 2005
"New" Guidebook by Steve Cater?
Fayetteville, WV.- The Waterstone Outdoors website announced Steve Cater's plans for an updated guide. Some deliberation is apparently being given to the issue of whether to include some of the undocumented areas. Check out This announcement by Kenny Parker and his request for comments on the guidebook. Some argue that including undocumented routes will prevent retrobolting of previously climbed routes. Others disagree. Finding these cliffs is normally a simple matter of asking around at the Cathedral.
Posted by WiredNut at 03:27 PM | Comments (2)
Dan Hague's Training Book Available for Pre-Order
Butcher's Branch 5.10, NRG
Washington, DC.- The Self-coached Climber by Dan M. Hague and Douglas Hunter is available for pre-order on Amazon. Dan is the former president of Sportrock, DC's collection of climbing gyms, and developed their excellent movement training classes. The book comes with an 85 minute DVD and is on sale for $19.97.
Posted by WiredNut at 12:11 PM | Comments (3)
August 12, 2005
Red River Gorge Guidebook Due in September
Slade, KY.- Ray Ellington's new guidebook is available for pre-ordering at wolverinepublishing.com. A sample PDF chapter for Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge is available at redriverclimbing.com.
Posted by WiredNut at 11:13 AM | Comments (0)