« May 2007 | Main | June 2008 »

July 27, 2007

Stolby: Siberian Soloing, En Masse!

Ok. This has nothing to do with mid-atlantic climbing. Who cares? It's fascinating.

Posted by WiredNut at 06:54 PM | Comments (0)

July 25, 2007

DC Area Climber Summits K2

Red River Gorge

Porters approach K2
Chris Warner, owner of Earth Treks climbing gyms, and his Shared Summits team have climbed K2, the second-highest mountain on Earth. Renowned for its difficult climbing, it is located in the Karakorum segment of the Himalayan range on the border of Pakistan and China. The Shared Summits website and blog have a detailed account of the adventure.

Posted by WiredNut at 10:06 PM | Comments (0)

July 20, 2007

The Weather is Always Steep in North Carolina

Red River Gorge

Photo James Glover collection © 2006























Posted by WiredNut at 04:42 PM | Comments (0)

July 17, 2007

RRG: 3rd Annual Johnny and Alex Trail Day

Slade, KY.- From Matt at Red River Outdoors:

Come one, come all to the 3rd annual Johnny and Alex Trail Day. Like in years past we will be depending on the community to come out and take care of the land you own and honor two great men of the Red. We will be building trails, bolting routes and having a kick ass party. Mark August 4th and 5th on your calender and be part of something special. This years event will be held at Coal Bank. We will have about 5 routes to bolt and many trails to build/secure. If you want to bolt a route please pm me so we can put you down, first
come first serve.

When: August 4 and 5, 2007
Where: Coal Bank
More info

There will be free keg beer, live music, t-shirts and free schwag for all that attend. We will also have the slip and slid and volley ball, we just may have to get in a game or two of the infamous bourbon ball. This year's event will help us with the GOLD grant we got last year. So bring your tools and bring some friends we go a lot of dirt to move and payments to make!

Posted by WiredNut at 11:29 PM | Comments (0)

Fake Bolts Sprout at the New River Gorge!

Endless Wall

Photo by Derek Good © 2006

Two Fayetteville climbers glued fake hangers onto the route as a practical joke aimed at one individual known for his vocal stance against retrobolting, among other things. The hangers were attached with glue that was strong enough to hold the hangers, a draw and a rope, but not body weight.

Other climbers removed the fake bolts quickly and no injuries to people or damage to the rock resulted. Park police began an investigation almost immediately.

The following is the text of a letter to all of us from Head Ranger Gary Hartley.

July 13, 2007

An Open Letter to the Climbing Community at New River Gorge National River

Earlier this week it was reported to the park that six fake bolted hangers were glued to the cliff face near the “Easily Flakey” route at Bridge Buttress. Once discovered, the hangers were removed and an investigation was immediately initiated. Through the cooperation of the local climbing community, the individuals responsible for this act have come forward and provided detailed statements. We have been assured by these individuals that the fake hangers placed on the cliff have been removed and that this was an isolated incident. Park rangers will be conducting the follow-up investigation and I expect federal charges to be filed against the individuals involved.

While this incident is under further investigation, I have asked the Superintendent to suspend the blanket permit for bolt replacement. As of this date no bolts may be placed on any rock surface unless specific authorization is received from the National Park Service. This authorization will only be granted on a case by case basis involving identified hazards and emergency situations. This suspension shall remain in effect until further notice.

Climbers should be aware that the National Park Service does not inspect or maintain fixed protection at the New River Gorge National River. All climbers should inspect any fixed protection devices upon which they will be depending. Any fixed protection that appears to be faulty should be flagged and reported to park headquarters as soon as possible.

The National Park Service considers visitor safety a priority and we must err on the side of caution. Your cooperation in providing a safe climbing environment is greatly appreciated. If you have any questions or concerns regarding this incident, please do not hesitate to contact me at 304-465-0508 ext. 218

Sincerely,

Gary Hartley, Chief Ranger
New River Gorge National River
Gauley River National Recreation Area
Bluestone National Scenic River

Posted by WiredNut at 11:10 PM | Comments (0)