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July 17, 2007
Fake Bolts Sprout at the New River Gorge!
Photo by Derek Good © 2006
Two Fayetteville climbers glued fake hangers onto the route as a practical joke aimed at one individual known for his vocal stance against retrobolting, among other things. The hangers were attached with glue that was strong enough to hold the hangers, a draw and a rope, but not body weight.
Other climbers removed the fake bolts quickly and no injuries to people or damage to the rock resulted. Park police began an investigation almost immediately.
The following is the text of a letter to all of us from Head Ranger Gary Hartley.
July 13, 2007An Open Letter to the Climbing Community at New River Gorge National River
Earlier this week it was reported to the park that six fake bolted hangers were glued to the cliff face near the “Easily Flakey” route at Bridge Buttress. Once discovered, the hangers were removed and an investigation was immediately initiated. Through the cooperation of the local climbing community, the individuals responsible for this act have come forward and provided detailed statements. We have been assured by these individuals that the fake hangers placed on the cliff have been removed and that this was an isolated incident. Park rangers will be conducting the follow-up investigation and I expect federal charges to be filed against the individuals involved.
While this incident is under further investigation, I have asked the Superintendent to suspend the blanket permit for bolt replacement. As of this date no bolts may be placed on any rock surface unless specific authorization is received from the National Park Service. This authorization will only be granted on a case by case basis involving identified hazards and emergency situations. This suspension shall remain in effect until further notice.
Climbers should be aware that the National Park Service does not inspect or maintain fixed protection at the New River Gorge National River. All climbers should inspect any fixed protection devices upon which they will be depending. Any fixed protection that appears to be faulty should be flagged and reported to park headquarters as soon as possible.
The National Park Service considers visitor safety a priority and we must err on the side of caution. Your cooperation in providing a safe climbing environment is greatly appreciated. If you have any questions or concerns regarding this incident, please do not hesitate to contact me at 304-465-0508 ext. 218
Sincerely,
Gary Hartley, Chief Ranger
New River Gorge National River
Gauley River National Recreation Area
Bluestone National Scenic River
Posted by WiredNut at July 17, 2007 11:10 PM