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March 30, 2006
New River Gorge: Dig It! April Fool's Trail Day
Fayetteville, WV. - Join the New River Alliance of Climbers for a trail work day. Organizers are hoping to put together a slide show for the evening also.
When: 9:00am Saturday, April 1st, 2006
Where: Burnwood (site of the Rendezvous)
Bring: Closed toe shoes, water, lunch.
Posted by WiredNut at 07:39 PM | Comments (0)
March 29, 2006
Red River Gorge: Muir Valley Closed
Early spring at Whippoorwill Wall. Note climber.
Photo by The WiredNut © 2006Slade, KY.- After reports of possibly weak bolts at Muir Valley, owner Rick Weber posted on Red River Climbing:
Effective immediately, Muir Valley is closed to climbing. This was a very difficult and painful decision that was made by Liz and me during the last few hours. In light of recent posts in the “Loose bolt on the Rising at Muir Valley” thread, we had no choice. This is very much akin to a product recall when a problem, real or bogus, that could result in injury or death is brought to the attention of the responsible party. Although Muir Valley is a private, non-commercial climbing area/nature preserve, we feel a moral obligation to protect our guests as much as reasonably possible. Therefore we are temporarily restricting access and investigating these issues.Mr. Weber has also detailed interesting bolt strength experiments in several threads at Red River Climbing.
Posted by WiredNut at 11:01 PM | Comments (0)
March 25, 2006
New River Gorge: Cater's Third Edition Guidebook Released
Fayetteville, WV.- Contact the folks at Waterstone or Caterbooks.com to get your copy.
Posted by WiredNut at 07:23 PM | Comments (2)
March 24, 2006
New River Gorge: Anchors Chopped at Junkyard Wall
Fayetteville, WV.- Over the winter of 2005, anchors on four routes weres chopped at Junkyard Wall. Note that it is a federal crime to chop bolts in the New River Gorge National River. If you have any info on who may have committed this crime contact NRAC
Such misguided efforts are indefensible. Ethical and ecological arguments are thin, especially considering the delicate and hard won nature of the relationship of rock climbers to the Park Service and greater Fayette community that is put at risk. This act was nothing more than selfish, immature vandalism by insecure and pathetic perpatrators. This type of action has the potential to permanently damage the climbing community.
If you have a beef with anchor placement, take it up through NRAC.
The routes: Stuck in Another Dimension, Entertainer, Four Sheets to the Wind and Rapscallion's Blues.
Posted by WiredNut at 07:43 AM | Comments (1)
March 23, 2006
Updated: Red River Gorge: Torrent Falls: Follow the Rules or It's Closed!
The amazing Wall of Twelves at Torrent Falls Resort
Photo by The WiredNut © 2006Slade, KY.- Torrent Falls owners Mark and Kathy Meyer have grown understandably frustrated with the disrespect that climbers have shown on their beautiful land. Mr. Meyer has posted some simple, easy to follow rules. If they aren't followed, climbing will be closed.
Frankly, the WiredNut is stunned at how inconsiderate climbers have been. Put yourself in Mr. Meyer's position. He comments on RedRiverClimbing.com
"I have seen on more than one occasion, climbers pissing in my front parking lot. I do not go to your home and piss in your front yard. How would you like it if all my friends and myself came to your back yard and defecated? Over time, it adds up. Treat people as you want to be treated. Do you want 20 to 30 dogs crapping in your yard on every Saturday? Then 5 to 10 dogs every other day of the week?"
Torrent Falls is a complete resort, offering guided climbing, bed and breakfest, a via ferrata, and complete vacation packages. Call for reservations and information at 606-668-6441. The website seems to be down, but can been found in Google's cache.
You can read the full thread at redriverclimbing.com
The Rules:
1. No dogs are allowed on the property. Period.
2. No foul language. My family and guests are sick and tired of the foul language being used on this property. It reminds me of why I closed rappelling. Rappelling has remained permanently closed. This is truly insulting public behavior. Buy your own crag and cuss all you want to. Do not trespass your potty mouth onto my family that lives here. You could consider continuing this behavior (or lack of self control) and disclose to the world how you want people to think of the climbing community. I will close the crag on this issue alone or the dog issue alone.
The crowds ascend on Wall of Elevens at Torrent Falls
Photo by The LeatherNun © 2006
3. Do not release bodily fluids or defecate on Torrent grounds except in public bathrooms located at the BBQ. If donations pick up, a portable toilet will be supplied at Torrent Falls. I have seen on more than one occasion, climbers pissing in my front parking lot. I do not go to your home and piss in your front yard. How would you like it if all my friends and myself came to your back yard and defecated? Over time, it adds up.
On a side note, realize that the public restrooms are not free. It cost material and labor to build it. There are permit costs. Then there is the expense in maintaining, cleaning, and supplies. City water is not free. Sewage treatment is not free (installation was over $55,000). All we ask is to donate $2.00 per climber.
4. Do not ask to use the rest room at the B&B or main house. Think of it as if it were your home. Total strangers coming up to your home, muddy, sweaty, and asking “Can I use your rest room?”
5. Do not move the chairs from around the fire pit. These are for paying B&B guests.
6. No fires.
7. Do not use ropes or routes designated for Torrent Falls use. These are clearly marked and are for guided climbing and rappelling.
8. Park at the bottom parking lot and do not block parking designated for cabin use only. These parking spots are for paying customers.
9. Do not park in the paved parking lot at the Torrent Church.
10. A donation of $2.00 per person is strongly recommended.
11. Do not litter. This has become a real problem with climbers lately and it never used to be.
12. Be considerate to the owners of the property and it’s guests. Treat people, as you want to be treated. Do you want a friendly greeting or do you want to be ignored, abused, pissed on, and trespassed on? Remember, it is a privilege to climb on someone’s private property.
13. No rappelling with the exception of finishing a climbing route.
14. No night climbing.
15. Climbing ends at dusk. Climbers should be off the crag by dark.
16. No parking your car here and leaving the crag. You park here, you climb here. The parking lot is too small for a depository.
17. Use existing trails. It costs a great deal to put these trails in.
From the thread at redriverclimbing.com:
Mark Meyer, owner of Torrent Falls, comments at length:
It seems as though people are getting hung up on the $2.00 donation request more than anything. The $2.00 standard donation was passed down from my father-in-law Fred Martin. Some of you may remember him. It is was created by him to help offset labor costs. I had, and maintain the tone of financials simply due to the aggravation level my family has to endure every day. We enjoy the climbing community as a whole and believe in your sport. If I was really concerned about the $2.00 and wanted to make a profit center, I would turn it into a member's only crag. If these simple but explicite rules are not followed I can shut it down.The main big deal with me is the lack of respect from people who enter onto my property. I live here and see it everyday. We have had dog fights even today. This interrupts my daughter's home schooling.
I am trying to work with the climbing community in still allowing dogs, because I like them also. A great deal of time, it sounds like a dog kennel here. My family and guests have chose to live and visit here to commune with nature. I simply do not have to tolerate foul language belting off the walls of this natural amphitheater. Listen to my real aggravations. They are controllable. If the climbing community can not control it, I can.
Signs to me do not hold much water. I have had them up for years. People just ignore them. The community has been warned enough.
I hope everyone understands. We do enjoy the good things in people. I feel climbing is a good thing.
Posted by WiredNut at 08:11 PM | Comments (0)
March 21, 2006
Summersville Lake: Route Development Rumors
Jessica warms up on Wendy's Jugs, 5.6
Photo by The WiredNut © 2006
Posted by WiredNut at 06:20 PM | Comments (0)
March 06, 2006
New River Gorge: 4th Annual Rendevous, Volunteers Needed
Fayetteville, WV.- The 4th Annual New River Rendezvous is set for May 19-21, 2006. Organizers realize that last years volunteers weren't thanked well enough and have taken action to improve organization by a designated Volunteer Coordinator. Volunteers will score some pretty fine schwag for grinding out a 4 hour shift, as well as other benefits.
Sign up by emailing Maura at Waterstone.
The pressure is on this year to donate to the New River Alliance of Climbers, so expect lots of smiling faces asking for money, and don't be stingy!
Posted by WiredNut at 01:59 PM | Comments (0)