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December 24, 2005
The WiredNut Wishes Everyone a Merry Christmas!
William Ford on a project at Moore's Wall, NC.
Photo by 'Talkin' James Glover © 2005
Posted by WiredNut at 09:38 AM | Comments (2)
December 16, 2005
WV: Franklin Trail Work Progress!
Crack climbing at Summersville Lake
Photo by Derek Goode © 2005Franklin, WV.- Significant trail work has been done by the hard working crew of "The Punishers", (aka Mike Gray and Micheal Fisher). The Contact Zone trail has been realigned from Potential Energy and uphill to Franklinstein; Blood, Sweat, and Chalk; and the Impact area. Work is in progress to connect the trail from the Parking Area cliff (Squeal Like A Pig, Lunar Debris, etc.) to the trail just beyond Raised By Sasquatch.
Please do not continue to use the contour trail below this line.
The "real" trail runs from the road steeply up and right, crossing
the fallen tree, then more or less heads straight to Potential Energy, the first route in the Contact Zone sector proper.
Marker tape and stone or wood rails will be used to define the trail in the future. Please stay on the trails as marked, avoid cross
cutting, pick up your trash, and if you must bring your dog, stop them from digging holes at belays. Thanks for your coooperation!
Posted by WiredNut at 08:10 PM | Comments (0)
December 13, 2005
Another Reminder: Great Falls Management Plan, Comment Period Ending Soon!
Bouldering at Hueco Tanks, TX
Photo by Matt Stark © 2005Great Falls, VA.- The National Park Service has released a draft General Management Plan (GMP) and Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) for Great Falls Park and is currently accepting public comments until December 15. Anyone who has ever climbed at Great Falls is encouraged to send comments to Audrey Calhoun, Superintendent, and copy greatfallsaccess@gmail.com.
The plan evaluates two alternatives for the park. The park’s preferred alternative (B), as written, would severely and unnecessarily restrict climbing in the park by making some popular climbing areas off-limits, forcing climbers to use a limited number of fixed anchors installed by the park, and possibly requiring climbers to compete for a limited number of climbing permits. The climbing community is concerned that the draft GMP, specifically the preferred alternative, was created on an unscientifically-substantiated belief that climbers, who are one of the smallest and most environmentally conscious group of park visitors, have a serious impact on the park’s resources and must be regulated.
Based on public input during the comment period, the park will prepare a Final GMP/EIS where they will either select Alternative A or B as the preferred course of action, modify the alternative based on comments received, or explore additional alternatives. For more information, please visit Friends of Great Falls.
The Management Plan can be found here.
A previous WiredNut item can be found here.
Great Falls is the closest climbing area to Washington DC and is an important regional climbing resource. Many climbing organizations in the DC Metro area have come together to create a unified voice on behalf of the climbing community under the umbrella of the Friends of Great Falls. This coalition includes representatives from Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, the Blue Ridge Section of the American Alpine Club, DC Outdoor Rock Climbers, Sheclimbs, Sportrock, and the Access Fund.
Posted by WiredNut at 12:03 PM | Comments (2)
December 07, 2005
Eric Hörst's Training Blog
PA.- Eric Hörst, accomplished climber and prolific first ascensionist, publishes an excellent training blog at Mountainzone. This month's entry is an article on developing "limit strength". Specific training techniques are discussed, and notes on the physiology are included. Previous entries include tips on amping up motivation, why road trips make you a better climber and more. Eric publishes a new article roughly every month. They are available via RSS.
Posted by WiredNut at 09:32 PM | Comments (2)
December 04, 2005
Red River Gorge Climbing Coalition: 2006 Planning Input Sought
Sonia on American Dream, 12b, Red River Gorge
Photo by Wes Allen© 2005Slade, KY.- The Red River Gorge Climbing Coalition is seeking input for the 2006 Strategic Plan. In a post at RRGCC.com, President Bill Strachen notes, "The input we are seeking is focused on the five general areas stated below. Please feel free to post your input in this forum or if you would prefer, feel free to PM or contact either myself or any other Board member."
1.) What are the RRGCC’s strengths? What should we keep doing? Do more of? Do best?You can submit comments or contact RRGCC board members through the Coalition website.2.) What are the RRGCC’s weaknesses? What could we do better? Should not do at all? Need to improve?
3.) Name the biggest threats to continued open public access to quality, climbing opportunities on public and private land?
4.) Name some opportunities that could help the RRGCC achieve its mission but is not taking advantage of? Opportunities are thought of as, easily available with little effort, generally inexpensive, things that would yield big returns, often called “heavy fruit, hanging low on the tree.” Examples could be, a highly committed, well-connected constituency (climbers) that could be rapidly mobilized, if asked; or, climbing is a growth industry, with huge economic potential, making it a natural ally with state and local eco-tourism.
5.) Given the RRGCC’s mission and the threats to climbing opportunities, what direction or strategies should the RRGCC pursue?
Posted by WiredNut at 11:54 PM | Comments (0)
December 03, 2005
NRG: Summersville Lake Anchor Work
Fayetteville, WV.- New River Gorge veteran and first ascentionist Kenny Parker reports from Waterstone Outdoors:
"We rebolted a few lines in the World at War and Hippie Dreams sectors, and also removed some old bolts and patched holes left from previous maintenance days. We are trying out some new patching and removal techniques, to standardize methods so we can incorporate new volunteers with proven methods. Heather Musante of is a great organizational motivator!"More anchor maintenence will be scheduled, so if you'd like to offer your input or join the efforts, be sure to visit the New River Alliance of Climbers website.
Posted by WiredNut at 10:53 AM | Comments (0)
December 01, 2005
Site News: New Advertisers for WiredNut.com
Wes at Tattoo Wall, New River Gorge.
Photo by Will Niccolls © 2005Leesburg, VA.- The Wirednut.com welcomes selected affiliate advertisers to the site, including Patagonia. In the near future I'll be adding more advertisers--picked for their quality reputation and relevance to climbers. I'll be experimenting with formats for the ads over the next month. My goals for diplaying the ads are to help cover the costs associated with running the site, without interfering with the mission of the WiredNut to provide community oriented news and information. If you need to order gear, you can help the WiredNut by clicking the links for the advertisers in the right sidebar. For any purchase you make after following the link, the WiredNut will collect a small commission. Thanks for the warm comments I've recieved about the site so far, and let me know what you think of the new program.
Posted by WiredNut at 11:15 AM | Comments (0)