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October 12, 2005
NRG: Anchor and Trail Work Progress
Fayetteville, WV.- NRAC (New River Alliance of Climbers) has been active this summer and fall with trail projects and anchor replacement. The Junkyard Wall and Bridge Buttress have new sections of trail, erosion fences, and steps through steep areas. The Bridge area and the Junkyard Wall are popular climbing areas, and these improvements will help to prevent further degradation of these high traffic crags. Because of these efforts, NRAC has a great relationship with the National Park Service, which recently purchased the Junkyard area.
NRAC members have also been hard at work producing a website for the organization and compiling databases for outreach and communication amongst its membership. The website can be found at NRAC.
Re-Bolting Efforts Continue
The vast re-bolting project at the New and surrounding crags continues at a steady pace. The focus at this point has been on the high traffic areas such as Summersville and Kaymoor. There is a form on the NRAC website where climbers can notify the anchor committee about routes in need by filling out a form and submitting it. Please be patient: The volunteer nature bolt of repair and the fact that most routes are on National Park Service property (and require a permit) limits immediate response to many bad bolt situations. Please emphasize extremely dangerous situations using the NRAC website anchor form.
Posted by WiredNut at October 12, 2005 10:33 AM
Comments
I have some mixed feelings about the anchors that are going in. I think that some of the routes getting anchors don't see enough traffic to merit them. Some definitely do and some anchor placements have been superb. The anchors on Remission, for example are great. They even add a bit to the route. You must top it out to clip the anchors glue-ins. Before one could simply clip the fixed sling around that tree. No topout required. That's great. But why do so many routes at Beauty now have anchors? They don't see a lot of traffic. Traversing to an anchor for/topping out Happy Hands used to have some spice. Now there's no flavor. Clip the new anchors (directly above the crack), sag and lower. Fixed rap stations are great. Saving overworked trees, great. Robbing the route of it's finishing spice is not. For example, it will be a crime if Linear Encounters gets a set of anchors. Topping that route out is not 5.easy. Topping it out over that bashie is mid-expanding.
Posted by: Scott Gilliam at October 18, 2005 02:12 PM
Scott: I think these are relevant, important concerns, and I think you are right on the money.
Let me suggest to everyone that has such concerns: Get involved with NRAC and their Anchor Committee, and you can have a direct influence on these issues. In my estimation the concerned parties realize that mistakes will be made, and they can be corrected. I'll post a new item with some of your comments, Scott, as well as some info from the NRAC website regarding anchors.
Posted by: WiredNut at October 18, 2005 05:59 PM
Thanks. I realized that was the right line of action and went ahead and revised my comments for the NRAC forum. Unfortunately I put them in the wrong forum. Hopefully an admin will switch the location for me.
Posted by: Scott Gilliam at October 19, 2005 09:42 AM