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September 28, 2005
Updated: Coopers Rock Info, Articles, AAC Event Oct. 8

Adam on Freakee Stylee, 12a. Endless Wall
Photo by Dan Brayack © 2005Morgantown, WV.- The Coopers Rock Regional Climbers Coalition website has some excellent information about Coopers Rock, including historical information from Carl Samples, links to trail maps, and some fine bouldering images as well. And remember there's a Cooper's Rock trail maintanance day coming Oct. 8 and 9. Find the registration table in the Coopers Rock State Forest parking lot. Targeted areas for trail work include: Sunset, Roof Rocks, and Tilted Tree. There will be a gear raffle and free pizza. Check the website for more information.
Posted by WiredNut at 01:59 PM | Comments (1)
September 26, 2005
RRG - Hostel, Cafe Get Good Reviews
Pine Ridge, KY.- If you find yourself at the Red River Gorge for the Rocktoberfest in a few weeks, True North Outfitters offers a hostel and breakfest cafe. By all accounts it is a fantastic place, with a great lodge atmosphere, library, internet access, and fantastic food. Prices for lodging around $15-20 per night. Check their hostel and cafe pages for details and directions.
Another great breakfest can be had down the road from Miguel's Pizza at Red River Outdoors.
Posted by WiredNut at 06:38 PM | Comments (0)
September 23, 2005
Gunks Climbers Coalition Newsletter Posted
New Paltz, NY.- The Gunks Climber Coalition published the latest GCC newsletter. Check the archives for older issues.
Posted by WiredNut at 05:30 PM | Comments (0)
Hanging Rock AAC Event, Sep. 24

Sunny winter day at the Oswald...
Photo by Derek Good © 2005Hanging Rock State Park, NC.- Hanging Rock State Park and Carolina Climbers Coalition request volunteers in conjunction with National Public Lands Day to assist in constructing the climbing access trail to connect the new parking area to be built off Hooker Farm Road, north of Moore's Wall. Meet at Tory's Den Parking Area at 9:00 am and plan to work until 1:00 pm. Bring work gloves, water, picks and shovels. Bring a lunch if you would like to work later. Plan on getting dirty this day. For more information contact Jason Anthony, Park Ranger Hanging Rock State Park at 336-593-8480. Check the Carolina Climber's Coalition website for more information.
Posted by WiredNut at 11:59 AM | Comments (0)
September 19, 2005
Great Falls Management Plan Meeting Report
Great Falls, VA.- Scores of climbers attended the public comment meeting for Great Falls National Park. Vance Middleton, local climber, said climbers presented a unified, non-adversarial front. He comments:
"I don't think that the NPS had any idea about the number of climbers who would show up. I hope they don't just pay us lip service. They seemed unprepared to answer climber's questions"
The PATC GFNP Plan website reports:
"The Public Hearing September 17th at the Great falls National Park's Visitors Center will go down as a bonafide success for the newly banded Climbing Coalition of Greater Washington D.C.. With 3 weeks in which to organize a unified response from local climbers to the NPS General Management Plan, despite STEALTHY Publicity, 105 citizens voiced their concerns."
Posted by WiredNut at 03:53 PM | Comments (1)
September 17, 2005
RRG - Roadside Crag Purchased by Climbers

Steve gets ready to commit at the Meadow
Photo by Will Niccolls © 2005Slade, KY. - Graining Fork Nature Preserve, LLC, a company owned by Grant Stephens and John Haight, has purchased land that includes the famous Roadside Crag. This was a complex undertaking, requiring more than a year of legal, genealogical, and survey work to complete the purchase from over fifty heirs spread around the country.
Mr. Stephens' announcement on RedRiverClimbing says:
"We welcome input from the climbing community. Feel free to email me at gstephens@kyattorney.com if you have any questions or concerns. We acquired this property for the sole purpose of preserving it for climbing. If we had not done this then it would have been developed for cabins. I have personally spoken with individuals who were trying to get their hands on Roadside at the same time I was working on the project."
Posted by WiredNut at 10:37 AM | Comments (0)
September 14, 2005
Great Falls NP Management Plan Public Meeting
Great Falls, VA.- Climbing access at Great Falls is going to change. To voice your opinion on the proposed plan, attend the public meeting announced here.
Date: Saturday, Sep. 17 1:00 to 3:00 pm
Location: Great Falls Park Visitor Center
9200 Old Dominion Drive
McLean, Virginia Phone: (703) 285-2965
The Mountaineering Section of The Potomac Appalachian Trail Club has reviewed the Great Falls National Park proposed plans and reports the NPS preferred plan is unfavorable for climbers-closures and permitting of climbing are two possible alternatives. Visit the PATC site for more information on how you can contribute to the climbers response document.
Posted by WiredNut at 10:01 AM | Comments (0)
September 13, 2005
RRG - Rocktoberfest October 8 and 9

Randy on Discombobulated, Endless Wall, NRG
Photo by Derek Good© 2005Slade, KY.-The RRGCC is planning to hold an outdoor climbing competition @ Torrent Falls on Saturday, October 8th, 2005. The evening party after the comp will feature traditional Octoberfest fare, beer, the first ever climbers chicken dance, and the return of the band from last year: "Badly Bent"; plus fireworks.
Clinics on Sunday, October 9th, 2005 will include a Warrior's Way short course with Arno Ilgner and a Climbing Medical Emergency Clinic with Dr. Bob Matheny.
Posted by WiredNut at 11:21 PM | Comments (0)
September 12, 2005
RRG - Car Break-ins Common
Slade, KY.- Theft from automobiles is commonly reported. Areas such as Sore Heel Hollow, the Motherlode, and others are not safe. The suggested practice is to leave your car windows open and take all valuable items with you.
Posted by WiredNut at 09:52 PM | Comments (0)
NRG: Kaymoor Bolts Replaced

Margaret on Ro Shampo, 12a, RRG.
Photo by WiredNut © 2005Fayetteville, WV.- If you've climbed at Kaymoor in the past you've probably noticed a huge number of critically rusted bolts and anchors. Take heart: Many routes have been rebolted at Butcher's Branch recently. Thanks to Kenny Parker and NRAC for their efforts. From my observations it looks like every route from Green Piece and Flight of the Gumby (inclusive) has new hardware. And I might add that I tested many of the crux bolts personally yesterday! Note that the Hole has some new bolts also, though it isn't completely fixed.
Adopt-A-Crag at NRG. September 18 and 19 at Bridge Butress and Junkyard Wall. See NRAC for details.
Posted by WiredNut at 09:24 AM | Comments (0)
Coopers Rock Events
Morgantown, WV.- Dan Brayack, author of the upcoming Coopers Rock bouldering guide, requests that climbers join him on Sep. 24. (Rain date Sep. 25). He's asking for input on drafts of his guide. Get out there, do some bouldering, and tell Dan what you think of his guide and ratings.
There is also a Coopers Rock trail maintanance day on Oct. 8. More details forthcoming.
Posted by WiredNut at 09:07 AM | Comments (0)
September 09, 2005
Seneca Rocks Guide Injured by Rockfall

Rudy on a Left Flank 10a, RRG.
Photo by WiredNut © 2005Seneca Rocks Mountain Guide Justin Day sustained an injury to the lower leg area due to a falling rock on Saturday, September 3. He was airlifted to WVU hospital. Surgery was performed. Messages and donations to help Justin recover from this accident may be sent to:
Seneca Rocks Mt. Guides
PO Box 223
Seneca Rocks, West Virginia 26884
Please contact Seneca Rocks at 1-800-451-5108 for more information on how you can help. We all wish him a speedy recovery!
Posted by WiredNut at 09:41 AM | Comments (0)
September 06, 2005
RRG Guidebooks Available at Miguel's and Red River Outdoors
Slade, KY. Reporting from Red River Outdoors, the WiredNut has been informed that the new guidebook for the Red is available!
Posted by WiredNut at 11:26 AM | Comments (0)
September 03, 2005
RRG: 2nd Annual Gathering at Muir Valley

Will on a North Carolina Project.Slade, KY.- Rick and Liz Weber are hosting a trail and landscape restoration event at Muir Valley on September 24 and 25. Arrive around 9am and bring shovels, mattocks, and weed cutters. The Webers will be providing water, soft drinks, and snacks during the day. Enjoy bar-b-que, blugrass, and door prizes on Saturday night. Contact Karla Carandang, Event Coordinator to sign up and get more information. Also check RedRiverClimbing.com.
Posted by WiredNut at 11:46 AM | Comments (0)