August 31, 2005
New River Gorge Development Approved
Fayetteville, WV.— Fayette County commissioners voted 2-1 last Friday to approve a zoning change for an Atlanta developer to build 2,365 houses in a gated community along the New River Gorge.
The commissioner who cast the sole ‘no’ vote, Matt Wender, said he fears the impact the development could have on views in the gorge.
During their meeting, a lawyer for the commissioners told them they could not vote on 10 amendments to restrict the development that were recommended at a Monday hearing by the zoning commission.
For details: Charleston Gazettee.
Posted by WiredNut at 03:41 PM | Comments (2)
Site News: About Page
VA.- In an attempt to describe why WiredNut.com exists, I've created an About page. I welcome your comments. A permanent link can be found in the sidebar to your right.
Posted by WiredNut at 12:04 AM | Comments (0)
North Carolina Events
Ahhh, the Red.
Photo by Dan Brayack © 2005NC.- 09/10 Looking Glass Rock, NC. Looking Glass Rock Adopt-a-Crag
hosted by Pisgah Commercial Climbers Association contact Adam Fox
09/10 Linville Gorge Wilderness, NC. Table Rock Adopt-a-Crag hosted by (Boone Climbers Coalition, contact Ron Dawson
09/10 Person County, NC. Hager's Mountain Adopt-a-Crag hosted by the American Alpine Club contact Roger May
09/24 Hanging Rock State Park, NC. Moore's Wall Locals Day hosted by the Carolina Climbers Coalition contact Sean Barb
Posted by WiredNut at 12:00 AM | Comments (0)
August 28, 2005
New River Alliance of Climbers Active
Fayetteville, WV.- The New River Alliance of Climbers has a new website. Check it out for rebolting news, access news, and events. Remember that there is an Adopt-a-Crag event scheduled for Saturday, Sept 17 & Sunday Sept 18 at Bridge Buttress and Junkyard wall. See you there!
Posted by WiredNut at 08:40 AM | Comments (0)
August 25, 2005
Interview with Ron Knapp, Mohonk Preserve President
Seth on Zeus, Moore's Wall NC.
Photo by David Hill © 2005NY.- Check out this interesting Gunks.com interview with Ron Knapp, President of the Mohonk Preserve Board of Directors.
Here is his first statement:
"I want to say a couple of things upfront before we get started. I realize that this interview will largely be read by climbers and I would like to state clearly that the Preserve values climbers as a group and individually. We see climbing as a significant part of the Preserves' recreational heritage. Everyone on our board is aware of the 60 plus years of climbing we've had here. Some people in fact may not be aware that climbers are well represented on our current board. 6 of 18 are climbers. [Bill Thomas, Russ Clune, Joe Bridges, Terry English, Eric Gullickson, Mike Tannen]. This is a historic high for climber representation on the board."
Posted by WiredNut at 10:24 PM | Comments (0)
August 24, 2005
Rumor: RRG Guide Available Sep. 7 at Miguel's
Posted by WiredNut at 10:32 AM | Comments (0)
Carolina Climber Coalition Donates $6000 For State Park
Water Soloing, Summersville Lake, WV.
Photo by Dan Brayack © 2005Lake Lure, NC.- In July, the Carolina Climbers Coalition presented The Nature Conservancy with a generous $6,000 gift for land acquisition for the new state park in Hickory Nut Gorge. This is an important step that will help secure and protect an important natural and recreational resource for an area that includes Rumbling Bald.
Posted by WiredNut at 09:58 AM | Comments (0)
RRG - WiFi Available at Red River Outdoors
Slade, KY.- Red River Outdoors has free WiFi available. Excellent food and coffee also. Thanks to Wes for the tip.
Posted by WiredNut at 09:30 AM | Comments (0)
August 22, 2005
Red River Gorge Online Museum
Slade, KY.- A visit to the online museum at Redriverclimbing.com is a must for any RRG climber. Of particular interest: a 1981 Climbing Magazine article by Frank Becker, as well as the 1981 guide by Ed Pearsall.
Posted by WiredNut at 10:29 AM | Comments (0)
August 21, 2005
Sportrock Event: A "New Era" For DC Climbers
The Strong Women of Sportock's Beat the Heat Event.Sterling, VA.- Sportrock Climbing Center's Beat the Heat event attracted scores of climbers to enjoy the bouldering competition, DJ, free beer, free food, and gear raffle.
Sportrock President Lillian Chao-Quinlan noted that the event marks a new era for Sportrock as a "gym for the members", and promised that the event will be held annually. Top open division finishers are Vicky Arthur for the women and Paul Robinson for the men. Thanks to event organizers Lu, Pete, Lillian, and the entire Sportrock staff for their hard work in putting together a fantastic event.
Posted by WiredNut at 06:42 PM | Comments (3)
August 20, 2005
Updated: New River Gorge Housing Development
Sacred Cliffs, Colorado
Fayetteville, WV.- The Charleston Gazette reports that the National Parks Conservation Association and a Fayetteville resident filed suit in Fayette County Circuit Court Friday to prohibit the Fayette County Commission from approving the town of Fayetteville’s annexation of a proposed housing development that includes plans for houses to be built on the rim of the New River gorge.
Thanks to Derek for the alert.
Here's a link to the NCPA Action Alert regarding the issue.
Here's a link to a study by a WVU Professor who did a study of the economic impact of the development.
A previous WiredNut item is found here.
Posted by WiredNut at 08:52 AM | Comments (0)
August 19, 2005
"New" Guidebook by Steve Cater?
Fayetteville, WV.- The Waterstone Outdoors website announced Steve Cater's plans for an updated guide. Some deliberation is apparently being given to the issue of whether to include some of the undocumented areas. Check out This announcement by Kenny Parker and his request for comments on the guidebook. Some argue that including undocumented routes will prevent retrobolting of previously climbed routes. Others disagree. Finding these cliffs is normally a simple matter of asking around at the Cathedral.
Posted by WiredNut at 03:27 PM | Comments (2)
Dan Hague's Training Book Available for Pre-Order
Butcher's Branch 5.10, NRG
Washington, DC.- The Self-coached Climber by Dan M. Hague and Douglas Hunter is available for pre-order on Amazon. Dan is the former president of Sportrock, DC's collection of climbing gyms, and developed their excellent movement training classes. The book comes with an 85 minute DVD and is on sale for $19.97.
Posted by WiredNut at 12:11 PM | Comments (3)
August 18, 2005
WiFi Available at Rogers Campground - NRG
Fayetteville, WV.-Roger has set up a hotspot at the campground. Thanks to Minh for the tip.
Posted by WiredNut at 02:19 PM | Comments (0)
August 16, 2005
New River Gorge Housing Development News
Schuyler Crane (RIP), from DC, at Heuco Tanks. Fayetteville, WV- Land Resource Company of Atlanta has renewed its application to rezone 4300 acres near the New River Gorge, as reported here at WVNS news on July 28, 2005. Last February the rezoning application was withdrawn amidst large public outcry.
When withdrawing the original application, a realtor for LRC named Scott Barfield said the firm planned to file a revised application that will eliminate a 613-acre tract owned by Rush Creek Land Co. within the boundaries of the New River Gorge National River.
At this time I'm working to find out if that is indeed the case with the new application, stand by for updates.
Economic Study Shows 10,000 jobs will be created:
Here's a column related to the economic impacts of tourism and travel, and the development in question is mentioned. Dr. Tom S. Witt is a professor of economics and director of the West Virginia University Bureau of Business and Economic Research, whose study shows that the development will generate 10,000 jobs in Fayette County during the construction phase, and that there will be an increase of nearly $5.8 million in property taxes paid to Fayette County.
Now, the climbing, whitewater, and environmental communities are generally opposed to the development, citing the unique natural resources offered in the area. I believe some sympathy toward the generally depressed economic nature of the area is necessary. I know many climbers live in cosmopolitan cities within driving distance of Fayetteville. In places like DC We've enjoyed the boom in housing, technology, and construction. I'd hate to see Fayetteville change, I'd hate to see any part of the Gorge degraded. But I can't blame Fayette County residents if they approve the development.
Posted by WiredNut at 07:35 PM | Comments (4)
August 13, 2005
Mid-Atlantic Adopt-a-Crag Events
Talkin' James on Fuel Injector, NRG, 5.13b VA, MD, WV, - The Access Fund's Adopt-A-Crag initiative is a nationwide effort to engage the greater climbing community in a cooperative effort to maintain climbing areas and trails, as well as develop positive relationships with land managers and nearby communities. For your local area contact information and a full schedule of Adopt-A-Crag events, check the AF AAC page. Here are a few area events:
-09/10 McClean, VA. Great Falls Park Adopt-a-Crag, part of Washington DC Area Adopt-a-Crag Weekend, Thomson Ling, Access Fund Regional Coordinator, thomsonling@gmail.com
-09/25 Hone Quarry Recrecation Area, VA. Friends of George Washington National Forest Adopt-a-Crag at Hidden Rocks hosted by James Madison University (www.jmu.edu/recreation), Steve Bobbitt, bobbitsr@jmu.edu
-09/24 Carderock, MD. Carderock Adopt-a-Crag (9:00 am), Thomson Ling, Access Fund Regional Coordinator, thomsonling@gmail.com
- 09/24 New Paltz, NY. Peterskill Adopt-a-Crag hosted by the Gunks Climbers' Coalition (www.gunksclimbers.org), Chris Moratz, gcc@gunksclimbers.org
-10/08 & 10/09, Morgantown, WV. Coopers Rock Climbers Restoration Project hosted by Coopers Rock Foundation, West Virginia University, Adventures Edge, & Coopers Rock Regional Climbers Coalition, Greg Corio, gmcorio@mail.wvu.edu
Posted by WiredNut at 10:17 PM | Comments (0)
Sportrock III Hosts "Beat the Heat" on August 20
Pioneer Rocks Bouldering Sterling, VA.- Sportrock III is hosting a summer festival and bouldering competition on August 20. I quote the website: Free Beer! Is there really anything more you need? How about a low key bouldering competition and boatload of prizes? Details at the Sportrock website.
Posted by WiredNut at 01:37 PM | Comments (0)
August 12, 2005
Franklin, WV Parking Alert
Franklin, WV.- Roninthorne warns climbers not to park at the gate left of the Roadside wall. This is an important entrance for the private owners that graciously allow climbing on their land, and should never be blocked.
Posted by WiredNut at 02:45 PM | Comments (0)
Red River Gorge Guidebook Due in September
Slade, KY.- Ray Ellington's new guidebook is available for pre-ordering at wolverinepublishing.com. A sample PDF chapter for Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge is available at redriverclimbing.com.
Posted by WiredNut at 11:13 AM | Comments (0)
Nelson Rocks Closure
Nelson Rocks Riverton, WV. - Nelson Rocks Preserve has closed to climbing. According to the NRP website, "This closure has been prompted by a number of factors, including frequency of serious accidents involving parties engaged in technical, roped climbing in the Preserve, as well as increases in climber traffic (doubled from Spring '04 to this year), and associated environmental impacts. NRP will be conducting an assessment of these impacts, as well as issues relating to safety/frequency of accidents and rescue. Input from the climbing public is welcome and may be directed to NRP at P.O. Box 93, Riverton, WV 26814, tel. 304-567-3169, fax 304-567-3244."
The NRP owners are currently assessing climber impacts and welcome public input. The Via Ferrata is open.
A discussion of a recent accident and the closure can be found at www.rockclimbing.com.
Posted by WiredNut at 10:32 AM | Comments (0)
Speed Trap Alerts: NC, VA
Sources in Winston-Salem and Charlotte report an aggressive campaign to bust speeders. Thanks Talkin' James and keep your big ass feet off the pedal.
As usual, Alleghany County in VA continues constant speed traps on I-64. Keep it at 70mph between Lexington and the WV line, or pay the fine...
Posted by WiredNut at 01:43 AM | Comments (0)
Free WiFi Available at Cathedral Cafe in Fayetteville
Tantrikclimber on a Bubba City 5.9 Fayeteville, WV.- If you are visiting the New River Gorge, the Cathedral Cafe offers free Wifi for laptop users to access the internet. Stop in for coffee, breakfast, and to check the weather. Two public computers are available. The social scene isn't bad either.
Feel free to post your WiFi and internet hotspots that are convenient for the travelling climber. Earlier this summer the WiredNut and entourage visited the Red River Gorge. Forget about the climbing--good breakfast and internet access are available at Red River Outdoors. Does anyone know if they have wifi? Miguel's Pizza might be another good hotspot.
For other free WiFi locations, visit MetroFreeFi. Don't pay Starbucks! Plenty of free hotspots are available, so patronize those businesses that offer this convenience.
Posted by WiredNut at 01:00 AM | Comments (1)
August 11, 2005
WiredNut.com Debuts
The WiredNut.com went live today as the premier Mid-Atlantic rock climbing blog. We'll bring you news and information with regular updates from New York to North Carolina, with a special emphasis on the DC climbing community. Readers are welcome to submit comments, articles, and photos.
Posted by WiredNut at 10:43 PM | Comments (0)