August 5th, 2010
Rock Climbing Knots
Knowing what kind of knot to use when rock climbing can go a long way towards ensuring a climber’s safety. Without stable knots that can support the full capacity for human weight, climbers are placing themselves unnecessarily in harm’s way. While rock climbing can be a dangerous hobby, using the right techniques and knots in the right situations can greatly reduce the risk, making a great day out on the open rock face a safe one as well. Here is a look at a few knots, how they’re tied and how they’re used.
- Bowline knot The bowline is often referenced as the “King of Knots,” due to its widespread use. While it’s highly used, it is susceptible to coming undone or distorting and ultimately reduces the ropes total strength. Still, due to its practicality in many situations in remains prevalent. To tie it, twist or turn the body of the rope into a loop. Then take the rope end and pass it up through the twisted loop. Take the end top and run it under the body, away from the loop. Finally, pull the end back up over the body strand and through the original smaller loop (a new larger loop will have formed below). Pull to tighten.
- Alpine Butterfly Knot This convenient knot is one of the most secure, reliable single loop knots out there, able to be tied without access to either rope end. To start, twist the rope to form a loop. Twist the loop again to turn the original loop into two loops. The resulting rope should look like the number 8. Take the second loop (top) down and bring it underneath the rope. From there, pass the second loop hold up first loop. To finish, tighten the rope by pulling in opposite directions.
- Figure 8 Loop The figure 8 is one of the strongest single loop knots, but it can be very difficult to untie if is tighten by supporting a heavy load. In order to tie one, fold the rope back onto itself. Next, take the creased end and fold it back to lay it perpendicular over the body of the rope. Then fold the creased end up under the rope, further down the body of the rope. From there, bring the end back up over the first strand and down through the top hole, rounding out the 8 shape. Pull to tighten.
